Unique Visitors Since August 2003

Site Owner:  Sean T Murphy, VFR@SeanTMurphy.com

Note:  The videos, pictures, and links on this site will open in a new window.  Please set your pop-up blocker accordingly and your phaser to stun.

Modification Links:* • Lowering Your VFR800 or How to Make Your Legs Feel Longer • Adding a Car Alarm or Put the Ignition Punch Down, Step Away From the Bike, and Nobody Gets Hurt • Adding Hazard Lights or Sir, The Lights Are Blinking and Flashing... Flashing and Blinking • Wiring Up Rear Turn Signals to Act as Marker Lights (Like the Front) or For the Love of God Don't Hit Me • Changing Your Side Markers or I Don't Want to Ride a Huffy • Changing Your Horn or Land Yacht... Coming Through • Securing Your Jackets and Non D-Ring Helmets or I Don't Want to Carry This Crap Around During Bike Week • Invisible and Removable Tank Protection or Scratches... We Don't Need No Stinking Scratches, Man • Adding a Vista Cruise Throttle Lock or I Feel the Need... The Need for Steady Speed • Kryptonite Locks Are Useless or Can You Say Class Action Lawsuit?  I Knew You Could • Corbin Sucks, Enough Said • Nolan Classic's Unique Air Vent or Honey, What Just Hit My Face Shield? • Travel Pictures or Look Kids... Big Ben, Parliament     • Ybor City Bike Fest 2003     • Biketoberfest 2004     • Hawaii 2005     • Bike Week 2005     • Bike Week 2006     • The Wolf, The Dragon, and Cherohala 2007     • Bike Week 2008     • Red Rock 2008 • Resources... We Have Resources? • My VFR's Specifications or Do You Really Care at This Point? *Note:  The information on this page is not intended as instructional.  I am not a professional mechanic nor do I play one on TV, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night.  These modifications can be dangerous and even deadly if improperly implemented.  You should always consult a Honda certified mechanic for all modifications.  I accept no liability for any use or misuse of this site (no good deed goes unpunished).  This fine print brought to you by the Law Offices of Dewey, Cheatem & Howe.     "I'm not even supposed to be here today."  --Dante Hicks, Clerks

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Lowering - Updated June 4, 2009

Feel free to email me with any questions you may have, see address above.

• The links, risers, and side stands are made by Ron of Sigma Cycles.  The lowering links are made of aircraft grade aluminum and his side-stands are cut down OEM stands.  He is also selling risers (I have risers on mine, no modifications needed to install them).  The side stand really looks really good.    Bonus round for all you Engineers / Quality Control gurus out there, Ron is a Digital Six Sigma Black Belt.  http://www.sigmacycle.com/
   

• One more thing you may need two people to get the bike on its center stand (one on each side, my wife steadies it on the right side just incase it goes that way while I put it up).

***Click on thumbnail images to view high resolution photos***

This modification will lower your bike 30mm or 1.2 inches.  OK, you'll need a set of Allen wrenches, box wrenches, and socket set.  Not to worry, this is fairly easy.  Note:  You do not need to remove any body work.  First put the bike on the center stand.  You may need a friend to help make it easier although you could do this by yourself.  But why not hang out with a friend?
Now we get to the meat of this modification.  Above is the original dog bone.	This is a little out of focus, but you want a box wrench on the back nut and use an 8mm Allen hex socket on a ratchet to loosen up the bolt.	Picture of the two nuts on the back.  The first is at the bottom of the triangle behind the muffler bolts in the foreground.  The second is to the right between the two headers. Use a box wrench to hold these nuts in place while you use sockets to remove the 14mm bolt and 8mm Allen bolt.	Before you remove the bolts, put boards under the rear wheel as the wheel will drop down.  You will also use the boards as a lever to move the wheel up to connect the new, longer dog bone.
Dog bone removed.  Just place the new one in and bolt up the left one first (the one that attaches to the motor).  Then have someone lift the board until the right hole meets the dog bone hole (the one at the bottom of the triangle).  Put the bolt through and tighten them down to specs.	Here are all the torque specifications for the rear.  The blue box is the area of focus.	Comparison of the two dog bones,  Honda's on the top.  Note the collars in the top dog bone.  Push those out and put them in the new dog bone.	Here is a tip, take two canvas bags and fill them each with about 30 pounds of weights, then hang them off the struts for the saddle bags.  This makes the bike's weight neutral on the center stand and will make lowering the front easier or have a friend lean on the tail.  With the bike on the center stand and the weights on the back saddle bag mounts, loosen the bolts for your clip-ons.  Then loosen the four pinch bolts on the fork tube of the triple tree.  You will want someone to hold the back so it doesn't drop down.  Then the person in the back, in my case my wife (thanks, Honey), can pull up on the back end lowering the front.  If you go too low, just push down on the back end.  The extra weights you added makes it really easy.  Just use a caliper to measure 68mm of fork tube above the top triple clamp.
Your stock forks extend 41mm above the triple clamp.  Raise up the forks to about 68 mm, this still gives you 4.3 inches of travel for the forks before the lower triple clamp, which is the max front suspension travel.  Now there are two black metal hose guides under the oil cooler on the left and right, just to be safe push them upward, they'll bend up.  This will make sure they don't hit your tire guard if you fully bottom out your front suspension.	Finished with risers.	Here is a little trick... On the bottom of the oil pan is a fin that protects the drain bolt.  There are two other fins in front and in back.  Take a level and put it across those three points, they are all the same length, and check to see if your lowering job is level.	Side stand: Take the spring off, a pair of Channel Lock pliers work well. Then remove the 14mm nut.  Then use a 8mm wrench to remove the position sensor bolt.  Then remove the 14mm bolt.  Repeat in reverse for the new one.  You will need to remove the Allen bolt for the fairing right by the side stand so you can flex it out of the way to put the side stand sensor back in place.
Enjoy your new longer legs. One last thing, you will need to adjust your pre-load on the rear shock as the default setting before being lowered will now have no tension on the shock.  For the 2002+ ABS models you will need to tighten the knob 6 - 7 turns once you feel tension to be set back to default stock setting (adjust accordingly from there).  For the non-ABS models you will need to get your wrench out and adjust the pre-load as well.
Long Term Report - September 15, 2008: 32,000 miles no issues with height or Ron's new side-stand.  I was at the local Honda shop for a celebration and won the slow ride contest over Gold Wings and Harleys.  I really like the looks of the stand, the Honda mechanics didn't know it wasn't the OEM side-stand or notice that the bike was lowered.  I had to point it out to them, they were impressed and liked the ride and ride height. Long Term Report - July 27, 2008: Almost 32,000 miles no issues with height.  I just changed my side-stand over from Randy's to Ron's.  I like the lean of Ron's a little better than Randy's as it is closed to the OEM stand.  It is not as upright and I don't worry about it blowing over when I have a slight grade dropping to the right.  The first test ride, err.. park, was outstanding, no issues.  Long Term Report - May 7, 2007: Over 23,000 miles now and the ride is great, no issues to report.  We did 1,600 miles in 72 hours.  We rode from Orlando to Canton, GA to ride Blood Mountain, Deal's Gap, and the Cherohala Skyway.  The Dragon and the Skyway two up.  Nothing scraped two up with saddlebags and trunk loaded to boot.  Long Term Report - March 31, 2007: Over 20,000 miles now and the ride is great, no issues to report. Long Term Report - July 7, 2006: Over 15,000 miles now and the ride is great.  I still haven't scraped on anything even two up. Long Term Report - August 4, 2005: Almost 11,000 miles now and still going strong.  I still haven't scraped on any speed bumps.    Long Term Report - March 26, 2005: I rode the bike for about 3,000 miles at stock height over nine months and was miserable as I had a number of close calls while stopping (5'10", 153 lbs., 31" pant inseam).  Parking lots, gravel roads, and awkward stops were nightmares for me.  I almost sold the bike after riding with my friends (who all have cruisers and have their knees about up to their chest when they stop) at Biketoberfest 2003.  I was riding “The Loop” (see link in the resources section) two up and they decided to pull over on a small gravel patch on a steep slope.  I almost lost it a few times.  I started doing research over the following months and found Randy on the VFR Discussions board and his link.  After talking with him I ordered the link and side-stand.  I lowered my 2003 VFR800A back in March of 2004 (before Bike Week) and I have put on about 5,500+ miles since lowering it and have not had a single issue.  I have gone over speed bumps of massive proportions two up at a good clip by accident and not scraped.  I have not had any issues with the side-stand lean angle and the big foot on the stand is nice in parking lots and at Bike Week when parking on grass (does not sink in like the OEM).  The handling is the same as stock, no difference in cornering or highway speeds and beyond.  I now have my feet flat on the ground, yes 1.2” makes a big difference, and a little bend in my knees.  I have not had one close call since.

Total Time:  ~1 Hour

Total Cost:  ~$365.00 (Lowering Link, Risers, and side-stand)

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Alarm

Run-time:  1:50, 26.8MB

You need a simple car alarm, I recommend the $69.99 CrimeStopper CS-2000II from Crutchfield, link below.  You will also need a few $19.99 piazzo sirens from Circuit City, two $2.99 diodes from a local electronics shop, and a soldering iron.  Just follow the wiring instructions that come with the alarm, use the diodes to isolate the left and right side flashers, so you do not cross energize the flashers during normal operations, and connect them to the flasher relay from the alarm.  The rest is simple power and ground and you are done.  If you would like you can wire up the ignition kill as well, I did.  I recommend zip tying the alarm brain up under the rear tail support.  This will keep it away from any water when washing the bike or riding in a monsoon.  The piazzo sirens can be easily hidden within the body work in the dash and under the seat.  They are extremely loud and the flashers are a good attention getter.  I would recommend against using the auto arm feature.  Just arm it when you need to using the key fob.  Otherwise if it is armed at bike week and the Harleys set it off, you know you will find your bike on its side and beat for being annoying.  The alarm has a dual stage shock sensor that is adjustable.  This should cover you, now granted someone has to hear the alarm that cares, which is rare, but this is just one step in a series of security steps to encourage the would-be thief to move to an easier target.  It is very good for traveling, just park your bike close to your room and you will hear the alarm even in your sleep.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-LmjO1ZkeF2G/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?s=0&c=2&g=801&I=041CS2000&o=p&a=0&cc=01&avf=N&search=

Total Time:  2 Hours

Total Cost:  $115 (Alarm $75, Piazzo Sirens $20 each)

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Hazard Lights

Run-time:  0:24, 6.3MB

Why don't motorcycles have hazard lights (OK, 2004+ VFR's now have them)?  This one is easy.  You need a two prong flasher relay from any automotive store, two diodes (NTE5812 Rectifier Diode, 6A 100V), and a switch (switch is optional).  Using removable wire leads, take power from a constant wire (battery +) and attach it to one of the flasher posts.  Connect another removable wire lead and wire to the other flasher post (you can hardwire this but then replacing the flasher will be a pain) and solder it to the two diodes.  The diodes allow electricity to flow in only one direction, use a multi-meter to make sure the diodes are allowing current to flow from the flasher toward the turn signals.  The diodes prevent the left and right turn signals from cross powering each other during normal operation.  Now you have two diodes connected to one wire from the flasher.  Run one diode to the left blinker wire and the other gets spliced into the right blinker wire.  Splicing into the rear turn signals will energize the front as well.  You can disconnect the power wire from the flasher relay and tuck the wires away under the seat (see video above) or you can run a switch between the battery and the flasher to make things a little easier to access.  Be sure to use wire heat shrink wrap or electrical tape to insulate all your connections and diodes.  My thought on the hazard lights were that if you are on the side of the road, you cannot leave your lights on for long without draining the battery.  The hazards will give you the protection of being seen without draining the battery by running the headlights.  Adding a switch and hiding it up under the dash gives you the ability to turn on the hazards when you want, rather than having to go under the seat to connect the flasher.

Total Time:  45 Minutes

Total Cost:  ~$10 for Flasher, Wire, and Diodes

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Rear Turn Signals into Marker Lights

        
Run-time:  0:15, 4.6MB

This one is a straight forward modification, you just need a spool of wire (14, 16, or 18 gauge will do) and a post quick connect like the gold one shown above.  Simply splice in to the middle wire of the front left and right turn signal wires by cutting around the casing and again a few millimeters down with a razor blade, be careful not to cut yourself.  Then cut the casing connecting the rings and remove that section of casing.  Take the wire to be run to the rear and wrap it around the exposed wire and solder it in place.  Then wrap tightly with electrical tape.  Zip tie the wires from the left and right center wires back to the rear of the bike.  There are a series of wires that run along the frame on the left side to the battery area, just add these wires to them zip tying as you go.  When you get to the battery area, loosen the rear seat plastic, on the left side you will find a wire run from the rear lights to the battery area.  Run your wires from the battery area up with the wire run, zip tying as you go. 

Then when you have the wires run to the rear look at the turn signal connectors, you will see the center wire is missing from the rear turn signal light connector.  Yet if you look at the posts for the light, the center post exists.  Use a voltmeter to determine left and right marker lights by turning on the turn signals (if you didn’t mark which wire is which when you started running them from the front), the power to the marker wire is cut when the 35w flasher is activated automatically.  Use the clip pictured above to attach to the end of the wire and set it in the center slot in the rear turn signal connector clip.  Zip tie the new wire to the existing left and right wires and replace the turn signal connector and you are done.  The rear turn signals are now wired just like the front and can be removed and reconnected just as you could before the modification.  This modification really improves rear visibility.  I have also added a LED brake light and tail light license plate frame as well.  With the stock tail and brake lights, the added LED tail and brake lights, and now the yellow marker lights, this bike is very hard to miss from the rear in good weather or bad, day or night.  Check out the video for an example of how it will operate post modification.  If you have trouble finding the right size quick connect pictured above, send me an email and I will give you my address.  If you mail me a SASE (Self Addressed Stamped Envelope) I will mail you two of them for free.  I have about 956 left, the store only sold them by the case.

Total Time:  1 Hour

Total Cost:  <$10 - Parts from Local Electronics Shop

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Side Markers

OK, let's be honest with each other, the round reflectors on the forks and mud flap, they came off your Huffy.  There is just no need for that, hey... hey, take those playing cards out of the spokes and listen up or you are getting a timeout.  Here is what you can to do.  On the back of the VFR's mud flap below the license plate, at the bottom, there is a reflector, which you need to order two.  Take a look at the red reflector, it has a post for the bolt and a second plastic post to hold the reflector in position and prevent spinning.  Now take off the round reflectors, put the new reflector's bolt post through the hole and move the reflector so the plastic "stop" post is against the top of the metal bracket and reuse the nut from the round reflector.  Now for the front, you need to order two yellow front reflectors off of a 2003 CBR1100XX, they are the same as the rear ones in every way, but yellow.  When you remove your front round reflectors you will notice that the reflector bracket has two holes, one for the bolt and one for the "stop" post.  The VFR's front reflector brackets were designed for these rectangular reflectors.  One last touch, when you take off the round reflectors on the mud flap you will expose two silver rivets for the reflector bracket.  Take some fine grit sandpaper and scuff them a bit, now use some paint or a permanent marker to black them out.  Now with the four new rectangular reflectors in place and the playing cards out of your spokes, you can ride with the big boys. 

Total Time:  30 Minutes

Total Cost:  $27.53 - Ordered the 4 New Reflectors from a Dealer

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Horn Replacement - Updated August 4, 2005

Tired of the moped horn that ships with your VFR?  Tired of cagers not being able to hear it as they try to kill you... repeatedly?  Well have I got a solution for you!  Go to Advance Discount Auto Parts (or any shop for that matter) and purchase a 132dB "Freeway Blaster" horn.   There is no wiring to be done, it is a simple swap out, well fairly simple.   Use a 10mm adjustable head angle ratcheting box wrench (Sears Craftsman) to remove the old horn, there are two slide clips for the wires, just pull them off.  Now slide the clips on the posts of the new horn.  The "Freeway Blaster" I purchased is not polarity specific, so hook the positive and negative up to the posts, no need to try and figure out which post is which.  Now put the mounting bolt of the new horn in the mounting hole where you removed the old horn.  The new horn is larger than the old horn so you need to bend the bracket out a little.  Also you will need and adjustable head ratcheting box wrench to get behind the bracket to get the bigger horn back on.  It is a bit of a knuckle buster getting the bolt on the post and getting it tightened down.  My VFR now sounds just like a Buick.

OK, this still is not doing it for me.  I need more, would semi air horns fit on the VFR?  Ari, from the VFR list, has a project on the books for Fiamm horns.  Depending on how that goes I may head down that road.

Total Time:  1 Hour (Knuckle Buster)

Total Cost:  $14.84

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Securing Your Gear

           

If you have the Nolan Classic 100e Plus helmet (great flip face) then you cannot use the D-ring helmet hooks under the seat.  But here is an easy solution.  Go to Home Depot and buy three feet of 1/4" plastic coated cable (making two helmet cables), cable stop crimp blocks, and wiring heat shrink wrap.  Cut the wire in half and use the stop crimp blocks to create loops at each end and hammer the blocks shut.  Then slip the heat shrink over the blocks and use a heat gun or hair dryer to shrink it down.  Now everything is plastic coated and will not scratch your paint.  Connect one loop to the D-ring hook on the bike, then run the other end up through the helmet and out the visor opening and hook the other loop over the D-ring hook.   The helmet hangs visor up and will help keep it dry if it rains.  Now for the jackets, I had an extra six foot Belkin computer security cable with $500 theft guarantee, but you could do the same as the helmet cables.  I run the cable through the sleeves of our jackets and rest them on the saddle.  I then pad lock the cable to the open area on the passenger foot peg strut on the right (away from the chain).  It makes life so much easier not having to lug around your jacket with CE armor in the Florida heat.  When you are done, the helmet cables, jackets cable, and lock tuck nicely away under the right side seat alcove. 

Total Time:  30 Minutes

Total Cost:  ~$20

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Protect Your Tank

Can you tell where they are?  The picture on the right shows the location of the guards in the picture on the left.

As we all know riding involves a lot of shifting your weight, well if you are having fun in the twisties it does.  That means friction against your paint.  Add a tank bag and your paint takes a real beating.  What to do?  Add a tank protector pad?  That pad only protects your tank from your jacket, causes a waxing nightmare, and the adhesive that holds it on may damage your paint anyway.  Well what about 3M adhesive film?  Good stuff, but when it gets dull and scratched, then what?  Peal it off and you are left with trying to remove the adhesive without damaging the paint. 

So what then to do?  Well I found a product that is spot on.  Snider's "Paintgard", www.snidersproducts.com/paint.html, is a non-adhesive protective vinyl film.  It comes in 11x14 inch sheets and there are three to a pack.  If you don't make any mistakes, you can cover the knee pockets, tank top (for your tank bag), and the tank face with one pack.  But get two just in case.  These sheets are held in place by static and they work great.  Once they are on they are invisible and the are really on there.  You really have to pick to get them to come off.  But that is the great thing, you can take them on and off as much as you want.  When they get scratched up just take them off, order a new pack, and use your old guards to trace out your new ones with a grease pencil or dry erase pen.

Total Time:  2 Hours (Trace, Cut Out, and Apply)

Total Cost:  $13.50 a Pack (3 sheets)

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Vista Cruise

Run-time:  2:52, 39.6MB

This is an easy one.  The Honda Vista Cruise requires little or no modifications.  There is enough space between the grip and the ignition housing that the Vista Cruise just fits in perfect (Vista Cruise model 07-4045, 7/8", Honda Dual Throttle Cable).  You may need to tighten the throttle cable sleeve nuts under the ignition housing on the grip so that they are parallel.   The width of the Vista Cruise foot is the exact distance between the nut sides and if one of the edges is pointed at the other the space will be too small.  You may need to move one of the nuts to put pressure on the foot.  There is one thing you need to do to the grip.  The rubber lip by the housing needs to be tucked in behind the white plastic lip of the throttle itself.  If you do not have risers on your bike you will also need to grind down the thumb lever  so that it doesn't hit the tank when turning hard over.  Use a Dremel to grind it down to the angle of the tank and then polish the end.  If you have risers, no worries, you're done.  The nice thing is that your thumb knuckle sits under the lever and when you roll the throttle forward your thumb knuckle unlocks it.  Even without unlocking, rolling the throttle forward in a panic situation isn't an issue as the friction is just enough to hold the throttle in place at speed (firsthand experience).

Total Time:  15 Minutes

Total Cost:  $20.00 Plus Tax at My Dealer

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Kryptonite® Lock's Kryptonite is Apparently an .89¢ BIC - Updated August 4, 2005

  
Run-time:  0:19, 5.1MB

September 2004:  So, think that Kryptonite lock will keep your bike safe?  Think again...  Note the time counter on the video, it took me 8 seconds to open this lock with a BIC pen, and the video is only my second try at doing it (I did it once to see if it was true before I shot the video).  The lock is a KryptoDisc DFS-C.  Kryptonite will replace the locks for free.  The DFS locks are being reengineered from the ground up.  You must sign up for the replacement and when your lock is ready a UPS shipper will be sent to you.
http://www.kryptonitelock.com/inetisscripts/abtinetis.exe/templateform@public?tn=home_home

• I registered with Kryptonite for lock replacement on September 22, 2004.

• Called October 14, 2004 - Told will receive my lock in November.

• Called November 5, 2004 - Spoke with Teddy and she checked system.  She called another area and "got company line" of "when the lock is ready I will be contacted".  She told me to check back at the end of the month.

• Called November 23, 2004 - Spoke with Tina, she had no information, but the locks will be ready after the first of the year.

• Called January 20, 2005 - I was told the DFS will be ready at the end of February.

• Called in February 15, 2005 - I was told the DFS locks will be ready at the end of March.

• Called April 7, 2005 - I was told the DFS locks will be ready at the end of May.

• Called April 22, 205 - Spoke with Christian and she promised me that I will have the UPS label in 7 - 10 days.  She said that due to computer problems, she will need to "re-register" me.  My new number is [omitted].

• Called April 28, 2005 - Spoke with Christian again, she said "The UPS label is on the way, just wait a few more days".

• Called May 4, 2005 - Spoke with Steve Cone and I explained all of the above, said to call corporate and gave me the number 1-800-729-5625.

• Called May 4, 2005 - Spoke with Dawn she said Kryptonite will have the DFS-C locks ready in 2 to 3 weeks.  She is shipping a padlock to me in the mean time [tracking number removed] - lock received May 16, but is completely useless as a disc lock as it is too narrow to fit on disc.  But very nice lock and I can keep it.

• Called May 11, 2005 - Spoke with Dawn and she is going to try emailing the UPS label to me - never received.  I own the  domain and this email was not block by any "Spam" program nor redirected, it was never sent.

• Email May 25, 2005 - Sent email to Dawn.  Still no lock or shipper label.  No lock, temporary lock shipped is useless as it is not wide enough to fit on my disc.  Left voice mail as well.

• Received Call May 26, 2005 - Spoke with Dawn.  DFS locks will be arriving next Tuesday.  Not sure if they will have chrome ones.  Call her Tuesday.

• June 2005 - KRYPTONITE U-Lock Litigation Settlement Administration:  http://www.kryptonitesettlement.com/.  Oh, did I call that or what?

• July 22, 2005 - Received UPS shipper email and sent lock back to Kryptonite.

• August 4, 2005 - Received new DFS-C lock.  Yeah, baby!  They were not fast but they did finally come through.

I have mixed feelings about Kryptonite; they did do the right thing and replaced the locks with ones that were more secure.  However they knew that barrel locks were not secure long before this got out to the public.  They chose to use the "security by obscurity" methodology, but that only works until the word gets out and that is a ticking time bomb.

 

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Corbin Sucks

July 2003:  So when I ordered my VFR I ordered a Corbin Gunfighter and the saga began.  When I opened the box and removed the self-forming foam, I noticed a hole in the leather on the left side.  Also the stance is really wide, but that is neither here nor there as I didn't have a chance to ride on it.  I sent my saddle back to Corbin the next day noting the hole in the leather.  After a month I called to get a status report and talked to Angel.  He told me that it would ship out this week.  A week went by, spoke with Angel again, it would ship out this week.  A week went by, spoke with Angel, you guessed it, it would ship out this week.  Starting to see a pattern?  Anyway I get the saddle back in September and it has a hole on the right side now.  I returned it. 

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Nolan N100E Classic Plus and the Flying Air Vent

May 13, 2007:  Those that have read my posts on the VFR List know I have been and I still am a big proponent of Nolan's flip face helmets.  The only flip face helmet on the market offering a steel on steel latching system.  They have a five year warranty and this will be an interesting test of their customer service.  On May 6th on the way back from riding 1,600 miles in 72 hours we were on I-75 southbound going about 70 MPH when the air vent cover on my red Nolan N100E Classic Plus flew off striking my wife in the face shield of her Nolan N100 Classic Plus.  No harm was done but it did startle her.  I take care of all of my equipment and there was no damage to the helmet.  It has never been dropped; which, just as with rock climbing (another love of mine) gear, if you drop your helmet you replace it, without exception.  You could have a micro fracture that could cost you your life.  I purchased my helmet with my motorcycle in July 2003.  I am planning to buy the new Nolan 102 N-COM helmet later this year anyway, but it would give me a warm fuzzy feeling to see them do the right thing with my existing Nolan.  Plus I want to know if my wife’s helmet is going to suffer the same fate and if there is an engineering fix they have implemented to correct this or if this was just a freak occurrence?  

• I sent an email to customer support on May 13, 2007 explaining that the vent flew off at about 70 MPH.

• Wow, less than 24 hours later they say to send them my address and they will send me a new one.  They say it rarely happens and there is not a design defect so my wife's helmet will be okay. Four days later the part arrived.  They just earned two customers for life.

 

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Saga

Ybor City Bike Fest 2003 - Tampa Bay, FL
I was riding two up with my wife.  My father in-law (taking the pictures) was riding the red Harley right in front of my VFR.  These shots are pre lowering and pre reflector swap out.	My wife and I at the marina.  Shot of the VFR loaded with saddlebags and sport trunk.  My wife loves the sport trunk because she can lean back and enjoy the ride.  The two of us can get 4 days of clothes and toiletries in the saddlebags and sport trunk (we don’t pack light either)

 

Biketoberfest 2004 - Daytona, FL
I went up with 5 other riders on a Harley Road King, 2 Yamaha FJRs, a BMW, and an Arlen Ness Victory (Nice bike).	We stopped at the Speedway first to see the V-twin vendor display.
Then we hit Main Street.	Chica's Unicorn as seen on Discovery Channel's Great Biker Build-Off.	Corry Ness's bike.	OCC's Trim Spa bike.
OCC Dixie Choppers bike.

 

2005 O'ahu Hawaii
While in Hawaii on our honeymoon we rented a Harley Duce for a day and rode the island of Oahu.  We put 300 miles riding around the island.  This is a picture of Heather when we went to the Dole plantation hedge maze.	Heather and I stopped on the North Shore (the big breaks are to the west more).  Great weather and the Duce is very comfortable, I really like that Harley.		East Shore.
We stayed at the Hilton Hawaiian Village.	Picture of the water from our balcony.	Facing downtown from our balcony.	Honolulu pictures from our hotel balcony.

 

Bike Week 2005 - Daytona, FL
The crew this time was a group of 5 bikes again.  Harley Road King, Yamaha FJR, BMW, a Suzuki and my VFR.	Skeleton bike with hidden gas tank.	Another angle of the skeleton bike.	Our local boy (Melbourne, FL) Billy Lane and his 2005 road show.  In the background is his most recent Biker Build-Off winner, note the hood ornament on the tank.  Billy was nowhere to be found but we have been running into him at bars around Melbourne and Cocoa Beach for years.  Nice guy.
		OCC's Hooters Bike.

 

Bike Week 2006 - Daytona, FL Tampa Bikefest 2006 - Tampa, FL
Trick Harley V-ROD, I'd actually consider owning this Harley.	Rook's bikes.  He ended up looking like an ass on Build or Bust when he tried to build a bike with Russell Mitchell.  That being said, the ass is creative, look at the silver bike.  They removed the back cylinder and put the transmission up there.	Honda now has airbags.  I want air conditioning next.	Roland Sands of PM.  The most uncomfortable seat ever.
My company and one of the products I manage... MotoDrive. MotoDrive Video.	In the immortal words of Denis Miller:  "That's the news for this Saturday night and I... am... out of here."	Tampa Bikefest, look a Suzuki with a single sided swing arm.  If only Honda made a bike from the factory with a SSS, oh, wait...	For when that first Harley motor breaks down you have a spare.
A chopper with a SSS...			Rooke.

 

 

Bike Week 2008 - Daytona, FL
It is that time of year again.  I am still trying to figure out what my next Sport Tourer will be, but that didn't stop me from test riding the absurd.  It rained and stormed Thursday night and Friday so that limited the rides and BMW didn't bring out an R1200S.  Will the rumors on a new 2009 VFR be true, well Honda wasn't talking.
My friend Dan on basically a snowmobile with three wheels.	My friend John on a V8 barstool.  No demo rides for this one, too bad.	My friend John on the Boss Hoss 350CI 5.7 Liter V8 motorcycle...  What?  You can demo these?  Sign us up.	What did I get myself into?  1,200+ lbs and I weigh 153 wet.
Yeah, okay there, Jesse James.	Automatic two speed, V8, and it handled very nicely.  I was able to corner well with it.	Nice Honda picture set up...
Marketing didn't see that one coming...	Manish and I rode into the infield to watch the pre-races.	That Saturday was the big race and Scott and I knew one of the racers.  This is Scott and Nate Kern who rides for BMW.	We had passes and were in the pits for a while and then we went to the front stands.
	Run-time:  0:49, 843KB		We ended the day in the midfield stands.

 

May 2008 Red Rock Canyon - Las Vegas, NV
My manager and I went out to Las Vegas for Interop 2008 and while out there we rented Harleys (I had a bagger) and rode to Red Rock.	Red Rock is a great park with two lane 13 mile loop going one-way.  Lots of great curves and elevation changes.  We did the loop once and stopped to see the sights.  Then we ran it to have fun, it was very much like Wolf Pen Gap.	Then I rode up to Mt. Charleston.  Almost 12,000 ft at the top and great views.  Yes, that is snow behind me in May.  It was 100 degrees in the city and with full gear on, it felt great to get up in the mountains.	View of Las Vegas from the Shadow Bar at the top of the Palms.

 

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